Five weeks ago, I finished the most difficult journey of my life.
When I agreed to ride my bike across the country, as with probably too
many of my commitments, I didn't spend that much time weighing the pros
and cons of such an undertaking. I just knew that I adore the American
landscape, the people of this country, and I always love my limits being pushed. So, I didn't hesitate.
The
Trek Travel folks and my friends all asked if I was physically prepared
for such a task. After all, the other participants on the ride had
been training for months, riding thousands of miles. The truth was, I
was fat and definitely not in riding shape. I didn't even own a
legitimate road bike when I sent in the release forms for the trip.
Yet, I knew, and those who are close to me knew, one of my defining
traits, is an extremely high, often irresponsible, tolerance for pain.
Ultimately, I was confident I could hang in there long enough to get
fit along the way.
However, in the days leading up to the trip, I completely failed to assess
how mentally and emotionally
draining this ride would prove to be. Unlike my body, which grew
increasingly strong and resilient as the days went by, my mind was
weary. Each morning, I would wake up before dawn, and venture out into
temperatures below freezing, knowing that I would be on my bike for
another eight hours. Chilled to the bone, I would look down at my
odometer and realize I had only traveled 3.6 miles so far and be
slapped with the realization I had a negligible 119 miles more to go.
I
had certainly ridden long distances before this trip. While training for
Ironmans, we would ride 100+ mile days. But, I had never done such big
rides on back-to-back days, let alone a handful in a row. Ugh. Getting up and motivating became the
biggest challenge. Some of the folks on our trip would take days off, or get in the
van during inclement weather. I can respect that. But, I had promised
myself I would ride every single mile. So, when I'd look out my motel
window and I'd see snow, or howling wind and rain, my heart sank.
All
told, I rode my bike for 34 days, covering 3,286 miles. The rest of the group rode for 35
days, but you'll recall that I had to give a speech in NYC and thus
came back to the desert and doubled up two days' worth of riding to
stay on course for pedaling every mile. I don't think I have
done anything in my life consistently over 34 days. Well, other than Twittering.
I
had the greatest aspirations of blogging each route and sharing this
experience with you. But, as the days went on, I actually found myself
increasingly spent, in body as well as in spirit and mind. To keep engaged, I dialed up the intensity
of my pace day after day, often turning mornings or afternoons into
one-man time trials. I'd peg my heart rate in the red and bike like I
was being chased. As my strength and conditioning improved, I would
just push myself harder. Racing across the rolling hills of Missouri,
through the forests of Tennessee, and over the snowy roads of the
Smokies was a thrill. Fueled by endorphins, my bike and I sliced
quietly through enchanting scenes in tandem with the verse of America's
topography.
This new approach came with some cost. Mainly, I
had never been so exhausted. A day of riding at full tilt, put me into
the evening's lodging a hollow shell of a man, double-fistedly conveying carbs to
my gullet without pausing for the inconvenience of chewing. After displaying my
calorically slutty tendencies to the innocent bystanders of the lobby
in said Holiday Inn Express, I would shower and climb into bed. By
7:30, I was zonked.
With that, I want to apologize for my
dwindling narrative on these pages. Your countless messages of
encouragement and support were essential to my completion of this epic
ride. The Tweets and emails you sent may have seemed token to you, but
to me they were fuel that kept me turning the cranks. My sincere thanks
for your care and your help.
Since
returning home, I've been asked if there
were days that I wanted to quit. Yes. Every day. The rides were
daunting. My body hurt. The conditions were harrowing. Danger was
everpresent. One of our guides broke his pelvis in a fall, and I both
crashed twice and bounced off cars twice. (When your worried mom reads your
Tweets, these aren't the kind of things you are eager to include in
your daily reports.)
At the same time, every day was a gift. A bounty of sights, of
personal challenge and introspection, a recurring introduction to the vibrant and gritty
people of our nation. Despite the often comically harrowing circumstances, I cherished each day out there. While the curmudgeon in me would ask my
mates, "Are we really doing this again today?" the explorer in me was electric. At some points, I would ride my bike up onto the
sidewalks and bunny hop the railroad tracks like I was on the BMX rigs of my youth. At
other times, I felt like a wide-eyed student, with each quiet revolution of the wheels
teaching me a humbling awareness and presence and a steady wind past my ears echoing a reminder of peace within activity.
The peak of my
experience, came quite literally, in my push to the crest of the
Newfound Gap, the 5048' pass through the Great Smoky Mountains that
marks the border between Tennessee and North Carolina. Though the day
started with my hallmark morning lethargy, the raw energy of the
national park, its autumnal coat, and its rushing waters flipped a
switch in me and I pedaled with abandon. If you know this road, then
you are quite familiar with its singular direction: up. The more I
spun, the sooner I climbed into a bracing, snowy canopy. With each
switchback, and the road's unrelenting grade, the road was wet, then slushy, and I weaved
through hesitant cars driven by snow-stymied Floridians. As
the inches accumulated on the ground, I accelerated. With each fishtail of my rear wheel, I laughed
and hooted with a carefree exuberance. Oh, to be alive in the
snow with a racing heart and heaving lungs.